Inveterate

Tuesday starts the 14th year of my Mountain Biking the States odyssey.

Having a particular habit, activity, or interest that is long established and unlikely to change.

I own a raw land, fenced, wooded acre near La Pine State Park, I have an architect drawn house plan, the land has been approved for septic, I have $ to build said house, my Sprinter has only 267,000 miles and is healthy, I own a new full suspension bike, my body has been worn for almost 72 years, I can be wherever and whenever I make happen.

Inveterate.

Bend continues to be my repair station as I scored a returning patient for physical therapy on Monday to treat my ailing right hip. Sat local Discount tire balanced my wheels which eliminated wobble. I ordered a new brake rotor to be sent to Bend, USPS. The Hub will reinstall my Formula Cura rear brake on Wed. Water has been turned back on at the Welcome Center. Trails are dusty with a layer of loose dirt on top that wheels churn up into the air. Trails are more fun up at Swampy as fewer riders and trails less hammered by many.

Rich versus the less better off. The Cascades Lakes highway leaves Bend heading up to bachelor and beyond. It passes Widgi golf course, greens fee for public can be $125 for 18 holes (groceries for a week). Across the highway is USFS land, public land, open to dispersed camping. Prior to this summer it was populated with campers from the very expensive posh diesel pushers down to the this is what I can afford. Observation was whatever people camped in was moveable. There are no established sites meaning parking right next to your neighbor was acceptable. Seems 2 years ago the USFS sought to change the designation of this big area  to ban campers because of suspected environmental damage. I wrote a public comment which put me on their mailing list. Review of the land showed not enough damage to close it to camping. Score one for the people. However, this year that same area is now closed to camping because the road is a scenic highway and people seeing campers there will detract from the scenic experience. Golfers with $ don’t care to see people of lesser means. To me the $ people eliminated less fortunate people from our public land. Loss for the people and win for the few.

My right hip is not happy. I have been rolling my legs and small ball rolling that hip. I have been icing it after riding. I took 2 days off. I have been riding at reduced effort. I need PT to figure out how to correct.

Today I rode from same anchor spot out past Phils. Again this spot is primo to me as no one can crowd in. Picked up Marvins Garden to KGB, to Expressway to ELV, to ride Ticket to Ride loop and return on same trails. ELV has many gnomes stashed visible from the trail some are stealth. Today i noticed a new one that won’t be moved soon.

new gnome on ELV

See the bead of glue around the base.

At the Welcome Center I discovered the water has been turned back on although the center is still closed. parked was this shinny newer MB Sprinter.

n

Almost 15 years have passed on my van giving it a worn in patina. The van burned a gallon of diesel to cover 26 miles driving around town and over to Oakridge etc. I suppose the luster could be put back on my van. Nah, moving right along.

How dry are the trails here? After a walk on the trails I have  high dust marks on my legs. I can be wherever whenever I want to be. Today i started studying weather maps to identify favorable locations to relocate to. Midwest is not dry but it has the yang of humidity and mosquitoes. Maybe scoot across the prairie to the upper midwest?

Nature

During today’s morning ride I stopped at Swede ridge intersection where I noticed a brown rabbit appeared to be eating dirt. I approached slowly watching the rabbit while it continued to nibble at what appeared to be a wet spot on the ground. When I closed to say within less than 10 feet the rabbit hopped away. The wet spot was perhaps water spilled by someone. I opened my hydration bite valve spilling more water over the same spot then stepped back. The rabbit hopped back to spot then got after “lapping” water. I suspected the rabbit was a snowshoe rabbit in its summer coat of brown. As winter approaches it will shed the brown replaced by white for camouflaged on white snow where its defense mechanism is to freeze. Suspect same strategy is used during no snow cover. Nature, adaptation.

Then yesterday I walked up a ways on Ridge trail at Swampy snow park seeking a strong internet signal. I sat on a log reading info on my phone. I happened to look down as motion caught my eyes. The ground was crawling with brown ants all of a sudden and were headed in same direction. I followed them but lost their progress. It was a mass movement from their hive under another log. Then I noticed motion again although it not of the numbers. I saw several carrying  a white object. Closer look guessed that the white objects were eggs. It seems that charge of ants was to raid another nest and steal eggs. I had heard that ants  raid other nests and steal eggs then enslave the emerging adults. I told Tom about what I saw and thought and he concurred.

Then there is just physics of gravity, either to overcome it or embrace it downhill.

Tom and Nicole are a young couple I met last year here when they shared a sleep spot. Tom and I have interesting conversations, we share some experiences and knowledge. At the end of the month they are leaving to hike the CO trail.

Another piece of nature. Last year while riding this piece of trail between Swede ridge and SST I fell but I did not understand what caused me to fall. That fall I was spit off my bike and splat on ground where I landed on my left side causing a cut on my arm that bled sufficiently enough to warrant stopping and bandaging it. Yesterday I rode that same piece of trail and smacked my right pinkie on a tree. Reflexes kept me upright. I went back and looked at tree and churned up dirt off the other side of trail. I and others landed almost onto either of the 2 logs sticking out.

looking back where I fell last year
culprit, viewer right side of tree hooked handlebar.

Last 2 nights I slept up at Swampy snow park as the 2,000′ elevation gain from town was slightly cooler. Plus trails here are less ridden and more difficult. I rode yesterday and today there.

My right hip has developed a painful problem and is seeking a solution. Perhaps it’s my IT band. I have stretched it and rollered it and even went after my hip with a small hard ball. I have iced it after riding. I have described Bend as a repair station and I am availing myself of a returning patient to PT next week.

I have now owned my Revel Rail for 22 days, I have ridden it 19 times.

Swampy is at 5800′. Sunshine warms, let’s be honest, heats my van up. I open windows and roof fan for cooling. High 80s. This morning was a chilly 34 outside and 50 inside. I pulled the down blanket over me for warmth, once out from underneath the warmth I put on my heavy wool sweater. Sunshine as the morning wore on made the chill a pleasant memory.

This Saturday is the 100 mile mtn bike race using miles of trail system.

Yesterday morning at Swampy a Cog Wild van pulled up and disgorged a shuttle rider. I walked over to talk to the driver about trails riders are taking back to town as a logging operation has closed a middle piece of that ride. The driver was none other than Lev, the owner. I recalled him inviting me on what was maybe the inaugural O’Leary ride.

When Too Much is too much

Friend Steve and I traveled over Santiam Pass to the wet side for shuttle rides of O’Leary Ridge and ATCA. The wet side is lacking namesake moisture. On Thurs we spent the night at Ray Benson snow park at the pass. Ray Benson is also lead singer of Asleep at the Wheel which is the mnemonic. Pleasant night with enough chill to run the heat. We had a 9 AM meet time for a shuttle from Horse Creek lodge. Several other riders joined. Gary, husband half of lodge ownership, was the driver. I have been shuttled by these folks several times. Shuttle takes almost an hour to arrive at Horse Pasture start.

Ah, the ride, which starts on a short piece of Olallie Ridge which is overgrown with vegetation trailside hiding potential pedal strikes. Olallie pitches down on wonderful deep woods tread, BUT there is a hard left turn on to O’Leary, if you miss it the joy of the incorrect descent is worn off by  the steep climb back up. I know the turn. O’Leary is a legacy hiking trail built by the CCC, it is sustainable as seen but not built to mountain biking enjoyment as the climbs are steeper. Deep forest cover on the ridge, never logged. Some past blooming prime rhodendron flowers and beargrass.

Steve on O’Leary
The trail played with the not very wide ridge line mixed in with steep climbing or descending traverses.

Very warm day, perhaps really it was hot. Tree cover shielded us from brunt of heat. Black rating O’Leary ends at Castle Rock climb up to King Castle descent.

piece of Castle Rock

A short climb at start of King Castle put us at the top of when too much is too much. The descent comes after hard effort along ridge, 4.1 miles dropping 1644′. The descent seems to last forever, which is great on face value, but is taxing more so than South Fork in Bend or Alpine at Oakridge. Wonderful bikes increase the smile factor and speed. We stopped for a rest and commented that sometimes too much is too much as the downhill is so much fun but taxing.

Steve rides a Revel 29ner and I ride a 27.5 Rail, same suspensions, different wheel sizes. Steve’s bike developed a horrendous skritch in the suspension that was diagnosed as bad bearings. It only complained when pedaling uphill but quiet when coasting. Bike shops in Bend are slammed for service so bearing replacement could not be performed while he was here.

Steve on roll down

My garmin computer recorded 15.91 miles climbing only 928′ and descending 4232′ in only 2 hrs 17 mins.

Last Sept  a strong wind event hit the McKenzie river valley down stream from the shuttle pick up. The wind came from the east which was unusual which knocked down tree that took down a power line that sparked a large forest fire. Gary said over 400 homes were burned down. We drove down river to get to Oakridge viewing large tracts of burnt forest, ghost foundations, and still standing houses. Burnt trees were being felled on steep slopes above the highway which was used as a skidder road to haul out the logs. The highway would be blocked as needed. I was there late Friday afternoon after quitting time for clear sailing. I first drove FS rd 19, Aufderheide parkway, until it was closed because of fire damage, this is just a 56 mile scenic drive to Oakridge. This time is was driving rt 126 down river seeing fire destruction.

I arrived in Oakridge driving slowly looking at town and reacquainting myself trying to remember what was and figuring out what is new. Dinner at Three Legged Crane, formerly Brewers Union. Same people, different owner. My body doesn’t like beer preventing me form savoring their craft beer. We spent the night at the bottom of Dead Mountain trail.

Sat we had a 9 AM shuttle from Trans Cascadia at the bottom of Alpine trail in Red Fir. Van was packed. At Red Fir there is a red covered bridge crossing a McKenzie river tributary and a small park which was packed with shuttle riders. never seen so many riders. On the drive up we followed another shuttle company full van and one of theirs empty descending. The end of the ride at Kate’s Cut in was packed with riders, it looked like a lift line at a ski slope. Steve and I waited for a lull in traffic before starting. Lots of riders, way too many, don’t pick a weekend day to ride. Trail goes across Sourgrass mountain where last year the meadows were full of full blowing beargrass. This year last year’s blooms are just stalks with seed pods.

Steve’s dust on Sourgrass, last year’s bear grass bloom
bear grass bloom sourgrass mtn, 2020

We pedaled past many riders walking their bikes on the uphills. Just more riders than I want to share my experience with. Traffic did thin out and we finally left the masses by turning on to Tire mtn, the second piece of the ATCA route. Old growth forest just so special to experience. Up high there were many trees blown down and compliments to whomever who cut out all the down. Big trees.

Steve on Tire
blown down, Steve

deep woods Steve

Tire mtn descent ends at Clover Patch climb mixed in with some downhill that had to be made back up. Small trickle streams that the trail crossed were dry. Clover Patch ends at a logging road. A new trail is being built that will eliminate the road ride which starts with a long descent on loose gravel only to turn up anther road for the climb out. new trail build started right at the road with no indication that it was open. Trailforks shows the trail as planned for this year. Steve called the Merch in town and learned just a short piece had been completed; should we have chosen it it would have been a short out and back trip. trail building blunder as there was no signage indicating trail not complete. To me proper construction would have been for the builders to walk into the woods a short distance before digging thus keeping the entrance invisible and only opened when entire trail is ready to ride. Just a hump climbing closed FS road in the heat, my line choice kept me in shade when I could. Last year I saw a new tie with no signage that eliminated some road riding. TrailForks showed it as a trail however it was not signed. We took it. It connects to Alpine downhill of Buckhead shelter where it was not signed. Very little traffic on the tread. Down a ways another tie was built right at the crybaby root but it was flagged closed properly. Back on Alpine late in the afternoon we had the trail to ourselves except for 4 women who rode our route.

Several years ago a fire burnt over a piece of Alpine which burned out the organic that kept loose rock in place. It is squirrelly, I learned to chose where to use my brakes and others to just steer bike straight and let wheels roll over the loose. I stopped at next road crossing waiting for Steve. He arrived some time later, he said that the loose stuff tossed him down for a bell ringer. We waited for Steve to recover as much as his body would before continuing. He will need a new helmet. He rode the rest of the way out good for him.

Down at the bottom the parking lot was empty but for us. A Sprinter pulled in driven by David, owner of Crows Feet in Bend. He told me he is buying the empty grocery store nearby. He showed me a scramble path down to the river which I took and took a dip, water temp was just right.  Steve rested for recovery. His bell was rung pretty good.

I drove back to Oakridge to Backwoods distillery for food truck dinner, live music, and an adult beverage mixed drink using one of their products. I soaked up human noise till I was full then drove back to Dead mtn for the night. Steve was already there.

Sunday morning Steve said he was heading back home to Wood River. He drove my Turner back to his barn. I wanted to do another ride, I chose to ride Heckletooth which is a monster road climb for about 7 miles of tight single track descent. I pedaled up the road while listening to my misperforming right hip which is painful when pedaling. At the river crossing I decided that my hip would not like the next 2,xxx’ climb so i turned back down river. I rode thru Salmon creek FS developed campground where I smelled smoke from a campsite. Fire danger here prevents any burning which I thought extended to campgrounds. I gave serious thought to confronting the camper to put out their fire. Fortunately for me I avoided a confrontation as I came across the campground host. I learned that approved campgrounds with fire places were approved for fires. We talked for some time. Last he was at another campground that was evacuated because of that same wind storm was knocking down trees. he said that at his favorite campsite occupied by another camper had a tree fall on top of that guy’s tent, he had left earlier. Host is from Tennessee, Oak Ridge. He said that he was researching same city and he forgot to put in a space in the name. He pulled up Oakridge where he is now. He still pronounces the city name as 2 words instead of here it is one one word.

I knew a trail was on the south bank of Salmon Creek and I could hit the up river start. I found the start. Many trees had been cut out, the trail started climbing right away. While it is rated blue it is still difficult places I chose to walk rather than attempt the feature. Challenging. Trail rides better descending. Narrow single track with vegetation hiding pedal strikes. I checked the water temp of the creek feeling it much too cold for enjoyment. I made it back to my van.

I drove back to town. I shopped Ray’s grocery which is a chain favoring small town markets. I checked produce which is severely deficient in quality, all the baking potatoes were cut during harvest, the yellow potatoes were greenish. Shit, it ain’t right that the store sells substandard produce to a captured market. La Pine has same grocery store, can see driving to Bend 30 miles away for good produce.

I drove to my property for the night. Over the years I have pulled up knapweed which has not come back. Success in preventing spread. Knapweed is along the roadside only. After dinner in twilight I stood outside soaking up neighborhood ambience of no sounds or outdoor lights. The sky was alive with Pandora moths.. Last year I laid out house foot print with PVC pipe. I realized that I did not orient the house properly which I will correct today once I figure out how to make a square.

Crazy. Thursday I did my laundry using the same laundromat. A guy commented on a sticker about normal people. He asked about me. We conversed, he is the new owner. He said he and his wife quit their jobs last year then embarked on a road trip around the country with their 2 kids, He is from Illinois small farm. He studied farming practices. He said Ohio, I said I was from the state, he said Mansfield, I said I was from there, he said Lucas which was my childhood home, he said Bromfield, an early proponent of sustainable farming. He said Malabar which is Bromfield’s farm. Malabar was the name of my high school. He shared knowledge about farming. First time ever I encountered anyone who experienced where I grew up. Bromfield won a Pulitzer for a novel I read on this odyssey. Bromfield is long dead as are my parents and the house is owned by someone else.

Forest fire smoke is in the air, so far air is just yellow. My departure from here will be decided by air quality or fire. Yesterday a forest fire near La Pine was putting up a plume of smoke. I researched the web for info and found nothing. Fear of fire, for me I can drive away with all my possessions, not so for residents. Serious fire danger from lack of moisture. Reservoirs feeding the Deschutes river are way below capacity.

OK enough. Time to move on back to Bend